7" Round CREE LED Headlights Replacement for Jeep Wrangler JK TJ LC CJ Hummer H1 H2 - 4500 Lumens H4 Plug & Play with Built-In CANBus - Compatible with Jeep Wrangler Accessories 1987-2018 - Perfect for Off-Roading, Night Driving & Adventure Vehicles

Ok, I read the reviews and decided to try them out. Replacements for a 2011 Wrangler JK. The construction of both headlights and fog lights needs improvement. This will cause headaches for people who are not adept at wiring and at grinding metal. As others have noted, the passenger side headlamp does not fit into the stock Jeep mounting holes, which is ridiculous. The driver side fit fine. I wasn't cutting away at my Jeep, so the only fix was to grind off 3 mm of the male connector (mechanical, not electrical) off the aluminum backside of the lamp. I used a Dremel tool with a cutting wheel. You could use a file, too, as others have mentioned here. Hook all lights up to a battery individually and test all functions before you do this because for sure this will void any warranty (if there even is one). Both headlamps worked before and after installation.The connector wires from both the headlights and fog lights to the daytime running lights and turn signals are crummy little tiny 20-something gauge wire. They say it is "tinned copper", which would be fine, but it looks like it is probably pure tin or aluminum wire, which is much cheaper than copper, is not as malleable as copper and subject to breakage, and is a worse conductor of electricity. Suggest replacing with your own wire. No reputable shop (or manufacturer) will ever use less than true 18-gauge wiring for lights in an automobile. Ever. I am counting on the low-current LEDs in the halos to not draw enough wire to heat up my tiny little wires and start a fire behind my grill. At least the main power (low/high/ground) wires were true 18 gauge, maybe even 16. The headlight harnesses fit, but one needed repair first. One wire was pulling free from the connector at the back of the headlight. Ridiculous. So I had to unmount a headlight, untape everything, pull the headlight and adapter, and fix it. I pulled the face off of the connector and then removed and reseated the pin so it actually fit snugly inside the connector like it was supposed to be in the first place. Again, shoddy quality control. At least the connector had a ceramic interior instead of the cheap plastic that I wouldn't have been surprised to see. Check for protruding wires from the back of any connectors--if you see anything besides colored wire insulator, send 'em back. I also loaded up the wire entry points into the connectors with silicone dielectric grease to prevent water entry--they do not look well waterproofed and will constantly be exposed to rain and road junk. They're glued together "permanently" so opening the connector (taking off the face) to repair them might break/chip them.The fog light harnesses did not fit my stock connectors, so I had to cut them off the fog lights and soldered them directly to the Jeep's wiring, also voiding the warranty (if any).Once installed, the headlights are slightly askew from one another. The modded passenger headlight looks like it is straight up-and-down. The driver headlight is slightly turned clockwise by about 5 degrees. This looks stupid because the headlights have 3 strips of LEDs on the left and right sides of each bulb that should be pointing straight up/down. They do on the passenger side (after cutting) the mounting tab to fit, but they are noticeably off on the driver side. The only way to fix this would be to either cut all three mounting tabs on the light, or do so on the auto's mount so you can rotate them back to straight. Off by 5 degrees it will remain. Very shoddy engineering.The fog lights, besides needing to cut off the adapter and straight-wire to my power wires, also suffer from quality control issues. One works fine, no complaints. One has too much play at the pivot point between the fog light and the housing (to allow beam height adjustment), and the light will rattle and vibrate inside the housing. Eventually these vibrations can be expected to stress and possibly break any solder connections or electrical components and connections. Again cheap engineering and poor quality control. After adjusting beam height, I stuffed two pieces of silicone tubing between the fog lights and the bumper they're housed in to stop the rattling, but shouldn't need to do this. The fog lights are also not perfectly aligned with one another. They contain 3 vertical LED "bars" in the center of the lights for daytime runners (I have them hooked up to my parking/marker light hotwire); one is perfect--straight up/down. The other side (driver's side) is slightly tilted. These are mounted exactly as the originals so the fault is in the manufacture. At least the imperfect alignment matches the imperfect alignment of the headlight on that side, so if you tilt your head they almost look normal. Not a complete deal breaker, but if you had these professionally installed you'd want your money back.Note that headlights and fog lights put out a horizontal line of light, not a spot, and these lines are not identical from light to light (why would they be? that would be good engineering...). One light bleeds over to the left more than the other. Unfortunately, this one was installed on my driver side and will probably annoy oncoming drivers. I'll need to switch it if this proves obnoxious or hazardous. The high beams do not aim higher like halogens, they just pour more light at the same level as the low beams.The fog lights put out a respectable amount of light, also in a horizontal line and not a spot.All wiring connections will be exposed to the elements. All of my plug in connectors have a line of silicone grease (dielectric grease) around the mating junction and are wrapped with electrical tape. Wire entry points to the connectors also get filled with grease and taped closed. My stock connectors were well built. The ones that came with the light kits are cheap and have gaps at the wire entry points to the connector that need to be protected. All wire-to-wire connections on my rig are soldered, coated in dielectric grease, and covered with heat-shrink tubing to protect them from water damage and eventual corrosion. All the more necessary if you live in the North and they use salt on the roads in winter, or if you live by the ocean. You are just asking for problems if you don't protect your wiring and connections. Dielectric/silicone grease is pretty cheap in the electrical section of any big box store. It doesn't conduct electricity and is great at protecting metal from water. Even cheaper is the same thing in a bigger tub called plumbing grease...in the plumbing section. Just read the label to make sure you're getting silicone grease. Cheap electrical tape will not survive a season. If using it (recommended where connectors meet) then "splurge" on the real stuff like 3M or similar. Harbor Freight tape and cheap online Chinese tape are not your friends when it comes to electrical tape. That stuff's only good for temporarily mending a broken fingernail. Though pricier, Liquid Electrical Tape works like a charm and also fills gaps; I haven't used it, but others report good experiences. If you don't know how to solder, and you need to connect wires reliably, you can probably get away with a cheapo online soldering iron kit, watch 1 or 2 10-minute videos on Youtube (some are great; some crummy), and practice a few times on some junk wire. The "easy" crimp splice connectors that cut into all your wires when you crimp them closed make really bad connections for cars--they are not weatherproof, they cut wire strands increasing the likelihood of your wiring heating up/burning, and they are very susceptible to vibration causing more damage to your wires and bigger problems. They're ok for non-moving connections on non-critical components. Your car bounces and vibrates. All the time when the motor's on. Your lights are critical components that you don't want failing on you. Easy to screw up with shortcuts. Easier to prevent.Will update on durability and road lighting ability after further use.Head lamps fit brackets with minor hole size adjustment. Driving lights do not fit 2003 hummer h2 as stated. Had to also purchase wiring adapters for proper installation. Thank youJeep lights are bright and people flash me. Was looking for something that won’t blind everybody coming my way. Halo won’t do that, but regular headlight setting is still very bright.This LED headlight/fog light combo was super easy to install. Everything was plug and play. I was very impressed with the brightness of these lights.It would have had 5 stars if I didn’t have to modify the housing to fit snug. The lights are perfect. I thought the patter was “weird” when I first turned it on, then I realized there is such a definitive horizontal cutoff it looks strange at close range. These lights are bright but not blinding when you adjust the vertical. Like others said I needed to adjust the vertical in the housing about 7 full turns to fix it. Take a look at the pics I took.Note, I removed one star because I had to dremmel the notches that align the headlight in my Jeep. The wouldn’t pop into place cause they were about 1-2mm too big. Took about 5 minutes to dremmel and test. Not a big deal, but not everyone may have the tools.Lastly, I ran a new wire from the fuse box with an “add a fuse” from the M7 a lot (heated seats) as it is controlled by the ignition in the run position which is perfect for daytime running lights. All in all, very very pleased, but not plug and play, but I knew what I was getting in for! I do recommend these.They look great, were easy to install!I put these LED headlights + fog lights on my 2016 Jeep Wrangler and I couldn’t be happier with them. Just as other reviewers have said, I had to shave the housing for the lights a little but otherwise it was really easy to install. They look great and I’ve already gotten compliments on them.You will more than likely need to lower the lights. There are YouTube videos that explaining how to do that and that’s very easy to do.These Look Great. Wiring is straight forward, there are plenty of YouTube videos on how to do it. Make sure to insulate the connections from each other.